What It's Like to Cycle the KVR From Kelowna to Penticton

Over the weekend myself, fellow KelownaNow journalist Cassandra Jeffery, and our friend Ryan Burley tackled the Kettle Valley Railway bike trail from Kelowna to Penticton.

The bike trail from Kelowna to Penticton via the KVR (Photo Credit: Google Maps)

Since posting photos to social media, I have been flooded with questions from friends as to what to expect along the trail. Aside from a sore bum, there is a lot to know about doing the 80-kilometre bike ride before hitting the dirt road. There are plenty of websites dedicated to the ride and information about what it is like, but as a novice rider, I found they lacked detail and knowledge pertinent to me. I have decided to share our story, with both the highs and lows, so you can make the decision yourself to tackle the trail and experience what the Okanagan has to offer.

Walking our bikes up the Gillard Forest Service Road (Photo Credit: KelownaNow.com)

We made a major mistake when starting out our ride; we thought we could start from downtown Kelowna and bike all the way to the trailhead above Kelowna Mountain. The steep ascent began just past the Sun City Cherries packinghouse along Chute Lake Road. We had easily made it to this point before having to get off our bikes and walk them up the road. It took a while, but we finally made our way to the Gillard Forest Service Road (FSR). Tired and with calves already burning, we were about an hour and a half into our ride and ready to hit the flat trail.

After 2.5 hours of pushing our bikes uphill, some very nice downhill bikers gave us a ride (Photo Credit: KelownaNow.com)

But that wasn’t the case. We found ourselves walking our bikes up a dusty FSR that got steeper with each step. About 2.5 hours into our ride, we were exhausted, our muscles ached, and we were still a long way from the trailhead. But luckily some very amazing Kelowna residents spotted us walking up the mountain road and stopped to give us a lift. What would have been another two hours of walking straight up the mountain turned into a 10-minute truck ride to the start of our long adventure.

The path is along the destruction of the 2003 wildfire (Photo Credit: KelownaNow.com)

As we stared down the trailhead, we were wondering what the heck we had gotten ourselves into. Already exhausted and with no knowledge as to what lay ahead, we got back on our bikes and began down the path. The views from the start of Chute Lake Road made you remember why you were testing your body and enduring the 80-kilometre ride. As you bike down the path, you can see exactly how devastating the 2003 fire on Kelowna Mountain was, but you can also see the regrowth that cannot be seen from Kelowna. The trail itself is a bumpy, sandy ride.

The sandy trail can be tricky to ride along as it becomes slippery (Photo Credit: KelownaNow.com)

Lots of ruts, potholes, and thick sand cover the trail, which can make it difficult to maneuver. I had expected a gravel road and was very surprised to find myself slipping and sliding along the sand as I dodged the ruts. This is also a road used by vehicles, ATVs, and dirt bikes, so don’t expect to only encounter fellow cyclists. The trail itself is wide in many sections, and you can easily ride side by side with at least one other person. The trail is flat all the way to Chute Lake Resort, but the sand and ruts make it challenging to keep upright at points. From the trailhead off the Gillard FSR to Chute Lake, it is about 15 kilometres. We found ourselves averaging a pace around 13 km/hr and made many stops to take in the view, eat snacks, and rest.

Beautiful Chute Lake at the top of the mountain trail (Photo Credit: KelownaNow.com)

Once we arrived at the Chute Lake Resort, we were greeted with a spectacular view of the lake, picnic tables to eat our lunch, and the first outhouse along the route. We had hit 35 kilometres from downtown Kelowna to Chute Lake and were ready for the lunches we had packed. After a quick bite along the lake, we spent some time touring the resort, checking out the junkyard museum, and chatting with the owners. Once we were well rested, we made our way along the trail to Penticton and down the 2.2 per cent grade, a welcome relief to our thighs.

The junkyard museum at the Chute Lake Resort (Photo Credit: KelownaNow.com)

This part of the trail had even more sand covering it, and many times I almost bailed off my bike. But as long as you pay attention and slow down, it should not be a problem. This part of the trail includes some amazing views of Summerland, Penticton, and Okanagan Lake. The well-marked trail travels through Rock Oven Provincial Park where the rock ovens from the early 1900s sit. Signs direct you to paths that lead to the ovens, and I recommend getting off your bike and checking out one or two.

One of the many rock ovens located in Rock Oven Provincial Park (Photo Credit: KelownaNow.com)

This part of the trail has more signs, benches, and outhouses, which are a welcome relief once you hit kilometre 45. There are plenty of spots of interest, including a massive ponderosa pine that is a sight to see. As you travel down the path, you will reach the closed Adra Tunnel and bypass, which is a steep descent. This is the steepest part of the entire trail, and it lasts less than a minute.

The massive ponderosa pine along the KVR Trail (Photo Credit: KelownaNow.com)

While this part is much less bumpy than the first half of the trail, it is very sandy and slippery. From Adra to Naramata the trail is pretty much the same, sandy with lots of interesting spots to stop. Once you come out of the forest and hit the open pathway, the trail is nicely groomed and easier to travel. The views heading to Naramata and into Penticton are spectacular and once again remind you why the sore bum is worth it.

Okanagan Lake along the trail (Photo Credit: KelownaNow.com)

Now what do you need to know if you plan on taking the trail, and what should you take?

A good, sturdy mountain bike with enough air in the tires and a fresh tune up is highly recommended. Bite the bullet, spend the money, and buy biking pants with padding. My biggest regret is not buying biking shorts. I had a gel seat and a good saddle, but my bum hurt. It hurt so much that I could barely get on my bike the next day to return to Kelowna. In fact, we couldn’t make it back to Kelowna via the trail because of our tender tushes. A camel pack with at least two litres of water should be sufficient, but we did have electrolyte drinks and extra water with us just in case. There is nowhere to fill up on water along the trail, so go prepared. Lots of food, proteins, and fruit are also recommended. You burn calories as fast as you eat them. A comfy, small backpack is also a good idea. Don’t overload or pack things you don’t need. There is virtually no shade along the ride, so a good hat, sunscreen, and appropriate clothing are needed. Also take bike tubes, a pump, and a patch kit with you just in case. While we did not need them, it was good to have along as there are lots of big, sharp rocks along the trail and all it takes is one to bust a tire.

There are lots of signs along the KVR to keep you from getting lost. (Photo Credit: KelownaNow.com)

As for physical ability, I exercise nearly every day. I hike, run, bike, and do yoga. I’m in excellent shape, but prior to this ride the longest I had travelled on my bike was around 24 kilometres. My muscles were exhausted once we reached Penticton, and my bum extremely tender, but overall not too bad. Having my seat at the right position really helped saved my thighs and made the ride more enjoyable. We had planned to bike back to Kelowna after staying a night in Penticton but did not do so. Tender bums and sore thighs saw us reach Naramata and 100 kilometres total, and we called our backup ride to come get us—after an afternoon of wine touring, of course. We overestimated our body’s abilities for the ride round trip but now have a goal for next summer. Overall, I recommend taking the trail and seeing what your body can do. Would I do it again? In a heartbeat. Would Cassandra? Not in a million years! Everyone is different, but I would think most active people could do the ride to Penticton.

We made it to Penticton! (Photo Credit: KelownaNow.com)

Did I miss something? Do you have more questions? Drop me an email or comment below and I will answer any questions you may have about the KVR ride from Kelowna to Penticton.